Contributed by Verne + Prozac

Not unlike other cars, the Satria R3, although substantially a better quality product than its original donor car will ever be, is not problem-free. Whether manufacturing defects (substandard parts and components) and improper fitting, the Satria R3 does suffer from quirks and niggling problems, usually inherited from its Proton bloodline. Here is a list of known and reported problems, and what to do if you encounter them.

Powertrain
Spark plug and cables
A few SR3 owners have experienced quirky behaviour with the car. Jerkiness at low gears and feelings of sluggishness can sometimes be due to faulty plug cables or spark plugs. Head down to the nearest Proton Edar Service Center to get them replaced under warranty. R3 engineers have advised to stick to stock plugs to ensure optimum performance. 3rd party plugs have been found to actually reduce performance (anything from 0.5hp – 1.0hp).

Lack of power
Not a real issue, but you need to re-adjust your cam pulley (or pulleys, if you’re on Stage-2) from time to time (or upgrade to Stage-2 entirely). Simply bring the car back to Proton Motorsports for a re-tune (free the first time). The differences can be quite adverse before and after bringing the car back to spec. Proven on dyno to be sometimes up to 5whp difference.

Engine stalls upon startup
You crank the engine and it turns. Suddenly it sputters and dies. This is a known Siemens VDO problem and has been encountered on at least 2 Satria R3 and several post 2001 GTi’s. Some say this is caused by the ultra-sensitive MAP sensor getting dirty. No known solution, other than cleaning the MAP sensor (but never directly shoot an airgun at it). Some owners have resorted to changing the entire system from Siemens VDO to MMC (either ECU 5377 or 0468). The latter solution is costly and can set you back from between RM1500 to RM2500 depending on availability of parts and workmanship. Additionally, if you’re unlucky it may open up a whole new host of problems since you’re using >4 year old parts. And you’ll void your warranty.

Drivetrain
Squeaky brakes
Your Satria R3 is equipped with the high-friction compound based Mintex 1144. They will squeal loudly upon braking, especially when the pads are warmed up and braking to a stop. This is normal. However, Proton Motorsports has a special gel which is applied to the back of the pads to absorb heat and vibrations. This gel will greatly reduce the brake squeal. Contact your nearest Proton Motorsports representative for more information.

There is a special bedding in process highlighted in the R3 user manual which would reduce brake squeal.

Squeaky dampers
A very isolated case where rear damper(s) was bottoming out and squeaky over undulations. Get them replaced at R3.

Clutch Slip
So far, there has been one reported case of a car with a badly slipping clutch. Speeds of even 60km/h were not possible. This is due to the fact that Satria R3′s leave the factory with a very high clutch. In rare cases, the clutch is adjusted so high that the spring mechanism cannot provide enough force to lock the clutch. This in turn causes the clutch to always have
Bodywork/Exterior
Misaligned rear bumper
The sexy rear bumper of the SR3 may be misaligned due to improper fitting. You can get this rectified at PESC or R3.

Interior
Dashboard/VDO
The background of the fuel/temperature gauge tends to bleed the amber light when the lights are on. This is due to a painter’s defect. Simply bring the car back to Proton Edar for a warranty claim to rectify this.

The vendor of the Siemens VDO unit has yet to solve the problem of the defect to-date. Warranty replacement was prompt in some cases, but part is still defective.

Door rubber lining/seals
Heavy rains and puddles may cause water to leak into the cabin as experienced by one or two SR3 owners. Get the seals and lining checked/replaced at PESC. This also applies to the seals on the front windscreen.

Power Windows
Isolated cases of power window defects/failure. Minor cases solved with simple silicon spray at PESC.

The dreaded right speaker
Rattles under moderate to high volume. Problem sometimes caused by a loose rubber gasket not fixed properly to the speaker. Solved with application of super-glue to seal/affix the loose part to the speaker permanently.

The squeaks, rattles and hums
Minute buzzes on the dashboard, squeaks from the rear of cabin. Usually due to fitment. Can be rectified at PESC or R3.

Loose Pocket Compartment (flap below the alarm LED, beside the ignition keyslot)
A common problem in post ’97 Protons. Tends to pop open under strong vibrations or G-Forces during acceleration. No known solution from Proton’s best design engineers or QC managers. Solved by owners with either a magnet and glue, or velcro.

One suggestion would be to remove the compartment altogether. Has no purpose whatsoever! (Verne)

Loose Gearshift Gaiter
On some cars, the gearstick gaiter (leather wrapping the gearstick) tends to pop off the rubber ring when the gearstick is pulled to the far left or right (e.g. shifting to 1st or 5th gear). This is due to a piece of plastic which is impeding the movement of the gaiter. The plastic base needs to be removed and the white plastic holding the gaiter needs to be cut down to a shorter length.

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